Streetwear Roots and Origins

“Streetwear isn’t meant to last forever, its cheap, accessible and has always been born out of something else, and that element will always be influential, past, present or future”

The essence of streetwear lies in the culture surrounding it, rather than solely on the clothing itself. The origins of streetwear are uncertain, with some suggesting it stems from the punk subcultural movement of the 1970s occurring in London, while others attribute it to the emergence of hip-hop music in New York. Stüssy played a significant role in making streetwear a tangible concept. Its owner, Shawn Stüssy, incorporated elements of the DIY punk rock culture by creating designs on boards for his friends and locals in California. He later started printing these designs on t-shirts and shorts, which he sold along with surfboards to promote his work. From its humble beginnings as an exclusive venture for friends and family, Stüssy evolved into one of the world’s most prominent apparel lines. Another streetwear pioneer to consider include James Jebbia, who founded skate brand Supreme in 1994. Although this new cultural movement finds its roots in in California and New York, Hiroshi Fujiwara and Nigo, both DJs and designers, are early adopters of this new stylistic current. They are responsible for the development of street style and the hip-hop scene that came to be in Japan in the 1980s. Streetwear was quick to spread and be embraced by individuals in cities all over the world, just like many other subcultures that came before it.

The original and iconic streetwear fashion pieces were known for their casual and comfortable style, often featuring bright colours, bold graphics, and oversized silhouettes. Some of the most notable examples of these pieces include graphic t-shirts with eye-catching designs, logos, or slogans. Hoodies and sweatshirts, which were comfortable and oversized, also became staples of the streetwear trend, with the Champion reverse weave hoodie being a particularly well-known example. Baggy pants, such as cargo pants or wide-leg jeans, were also popular in streetwear fashion, providing a comfortable and loose-fitting alternative to more restrictive clothing styles. Sneakers have always been an essential part of streetwear, with popular brands like Nike, Adidas, and Converse creating iconic designs like the Nike Air Jordan 1 or the Adidas Superstar, which have become symbols of the streetwear movement. In 1980, Run DMC signed a 1.6 million dollar deal to endorse the brand, subsequent to numerous mentions in their music. It marked the first brand deal between a rap group and a major sports brand, giving legitimacy to the movement, hip hop and streetwear alike. In addition to these clothing pieces, accessories were also an important part of the streetwear look. Snapback hats, Kangol hats, backpacks, and cross-body bags were popular choices that complemented the laid-back and casual aesthetic of streetwear fashion.

In the early days of streetwear, influenced by the movie “Easy Rider” (1969), street gangs in New York would customise their Lee denim jackets, serving as a form of identification and denim becoming one of the first canvases in streetwear. Interestingly, people started using their clothing and their words to express themselves instead of using violence, highlighting fashion as a tool for communication and acting as an outlet. This is evidence of one of the first forms of customisation in streetwear and a certain DIY ethos relating to the garments, inspired by punk subculture23. It is interesting to note that during the 90s, the colour palette employed for the fashion created at that time, influenced by graffiti and the trains painted around that time. Dapper Dan is considered a pioneer in urban luxury clothing, elevating streetwear to a luxury level, making unattainable clothing accessible to people in the “hood”. Hip hop brought attention to how people were dressing in the projects and birthing what we now know as streetwear culture. Streetwear is not just about fashion, but a way of life, reflecting one’s beliefs, values and inspirations from music to history.

In recent years, streetwear has continued to evolve, becoming an even more prominent part of popular culture. High-end fashion brands have embraced streetwear aesthetics, incorporating them into their collections and collaborating with streetwear brands. Streetwear has also become a major influence on the fashion industry, shaping the way people dress and influencing trends in the wider fashion world. The adoption of streetwear by the mainstreams, has given birth to the phenomena of Hype culture that has evolved recently within the culture. It is all about scarcity and limited-edition items, making highly demanded items seem more fashionable. Exclusivity has been given a new definition within streetwear with what is referred to as ‘drop culture’ – a clever marketing strategy in which brands release a limited-edition product in small quantities. First introduced by Nike when they released Air Jordans in the mid-80s, drop culture was then adopted by skate brands, such as Palace and Supreme, and has now inspired retail as well with stores such as Flight Club and Round Two. In streetwear, when a drop is sold out, it’s labelled as successful and exclusive. It leverages on scarcity and creates high demand, which is why, for example, Kanye West’s collaborations with Adidas, whilst they lasted, were so successful.

One of the main catalysts for the increased popularity of streetwear can be put down to the influence of celebrities, models and social media. Nowadays, fashion is heavily influenced by what people see on social media, and models and influencers are often known to be the ones to set the bar when it comes to what’s “in fashion“ or “on-trend”. As soon as these types of people are seen in designer streetwear, it’s cool. It is for this reason that so many streetwear brands like to collaborate, raising their brand awareness and exposing their designs to the masses. Over time, celebrities have hopped onto the streetwear bandwagon as well. Prominent figures like Kanye West, A$AP Rocky and Tyler the Creator are among the names of celebrities who can be credited with contributing to the staying power of streetwear in mainstream fashion. However, with the adoption of streetwear by the mainstream and its commercialisation, there has been a loss of its unique, gritty, rawness, once fuelled by a desire for personal expression without the freedom granted by unlimited funds. Despite its mainstream popularity, streetwear still retains its roots as a form of self-expression for young people. Today, streetwear is no longer just a style, but a cultural movement that has influenced everything from music to art to politics. Whether it’s a limited-edition Supreme tee or a vintage pair of sneakers, streetwear remains a powerful tool for young people to express their individuality and make a statement about who they are and what they stand for.