Sustainable Fashion

In this article we discuss sustainable fashion and the pertinent issues within the fashion industry.The fashion industry is responsible for a substantial amount of pollution and waste. We will be diving into the various aspects of these issues, what sustainable fashion consists of and some key players trying to make a change.


There are many levels to sustainability and the sourcing of the fabrics for this collections explores these various aspects. I wanted to help support businesses who embrace sustainability in its diverse forms by acquiring my upcycled fabrics through local vintage stores that dedicate their time to tackling waste by giving new lives to garments. For the sustainable fabrics I purchased only from ethical manufacturers who employ correct regulations in terms of production as well as for their employees. By supporting these local businesses it allowed me to create and for them to grow and spread sustainability in fashion, which is vital. Not all the fabrics can be upcycled due to the amount required for certain pieces as well as certain textiles demanding more resources in order to be produced, like denim, which is not in accord with the ethos of this collection.

Fashion is the second most polluting industries in the world, for a long time being the first. The production of garments resulting in a significant amount of waste and pollution, with the apparel industry responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions. 100 billion clothing items are produced annually of which unfortunately, approximately 92 million tons are disposed of in landfills. To provide a reference as to how much that is, that is a garbage truck full of clothes is discarded in a landfill every second. The use of synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon, which are not biodegradable, is one of the biggest contributors to this pollution. In addition, the production of clothing requires a large amount of energy and water, and the use of chemicals such as dyes and pesticides can have a significant impact on the environment. The rivers surrounding garment factories are often contaminated with thick, ink-like water that contains hazardous chemicals discarded from synthetic dye processes. This pollution raises the question of why colour, which is a fundamental aspect of fashion production, is allowed to harm water systems around the globe. The textile industry consumes up to 200 tonnes of water per tonne of fabric, and the majority of this water is returned to the environment as toxic waste containing harmful chemicals and residual dyes. Unfortunately, wastewater disposal is rarely regulated, monitored, or enforced, which means that major fashion brands and factory owners are not held responsible for their actions. Another phenomena linked to this are big, renowned brands who are meant to use regulated and certified facilities but actually outsource the dyeing processes to uncertified facilities in order to reduce costs. Another prevalent issue, which many remain unaware of are the abysmal working conditions for many of the factories that produces the garments bought by the masses.

Clothing factory employees often work very long hours, up to 14 to 16 hours a day, 7 days a week, and may work even longer during peak season to meet the brands deadlines. They often work in unsafe conditions with no ventilation and are exposed to toxic substances, fibre dust, and sand. Accidents, injuries, and illnesses are common in textile factories. Workers are also subjected to verbal and physical abuse, such as insults, denied breaks, or not allowed to drink water if they fail to meet daily targets.The fashion industry relies on low-skilled labor, leading to high levels of child labor, particularly in South India, where young girls from poor families are sent to work in textile factories for several years in exchange for a basic wage and a lump sum payment at the end. These girls are overworked and live in terrible conditions that can be considered modern slavery. 

Sustainable fashion is a term that has gained a lot of attention in recent years as people become more aware of the impact of the fashion industry on the environment. The fundamental basis of it, is about creating in a way that meets the needs of the present without compromising or putting at risk, the ability for future generations to live at a similar standard that we do. This involves reducing waste and water consumption, minimising the use of harmful chemicals, materials derived from fossil fuel, ultimately reducing emissions. Sustainable fashion also includes fair labor practices, which ensure that workers in the fashion industry are paid correctly and work in safe and healthy conditions. 

The history of sustainable fashion can be traced back to the counter culture movement of the 60-70s, where they favoured locally-made, pesticide-free, and handmade products. Hippies were also early adopters and would wear second hand clothing. This was a way to reject the culture of mass production, materialism and capitalism, prevalent and propagated in America during the 50s. In 1989, the World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO) was established to assist economically disadvantaged farmers and producers, promote fair trade, and address issues such as poverty, climate change, and gender inequality. The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC), the largest alliance of its kind, was also founded in 1989, in the Netherlands to advocate for the human rights of workers in the global fashion and sportswear industry. The Global Reporting Initiative (GRI), a non-profit organisation founded in 1997, aims to encourage transparency and sustainable decision-making in organisations, resulting in social, environmental, and economic benefits. The GRI Standards are guidelines for sustainability reporting increasing consistency and effectiveness in reports. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was introduced in 2002 to ensure that organic fibres are processed and manufactured in a safe, sustainable, and socially responsible manner. The GOTS label is awarded to companies that meet stringent standards covering the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading, and distribution of textiles. In 2009, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) was established as a global partnership consisting of over 200 members, including retailers, brands, suppliers, advocacy groups, academics, and labor unions. The coalition aims to create a sustainable apparel, footwear, and home textiles industry that has a positive impact on people and communities, while minimising environmental harm. In 2010, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation was launched by Dame Ellen MacArthur to promote the concept of a circular economy, partnering with major fashion retail companies to accelerate the shift from a linear, wasteful economy to a circular one. The Alliance for Sustainable Fashion was formed in 2011 by the United Nations, bringing together UN agencies and allied organisations to coordinate actions aimed at ending the environmentally and socially destructive practices of the fashion industry. Fair Trade USA introduced the Fair Trade Certified label in 2011, becoming the first ethical fashion certification. This label provides eco-conscious consumers with assurance that the products they buy are produced in safe working conditions and that workers are treated fairly and paid fairly.

Today, the sustainable fashion industry is growing rapidly, as more and more people become aware of the impact of their purchases on the environment. There are many small-scale sustainable fashion designers and brands, as well as larger brands that have launched sustainable collections. In terms of materials, the most sustainable and popular options include organic cotton, bamboo, and hemp. These materials are not only environmentally friendly, but also provide unique textures, colours as well as patterns that are not available with conventional materials. They are also predominantly grown without the use of harmful pesticides or chemicals, and are often more durable and long-lasting than traditional fabrics. One of the challenges facing the sustainable fashion industry is that it is still a niche market, with limited production and limited access to resources. This makes it difficult for small-scale brands to compete with larger, established brands that dominate the fashion industry. Additionally, the high cost of sustainable materials and production processes can make it difficult for these brands to produce sustainable fashion at a competitive price point.

Up-cycling is a key component of sustainable fashion, as it involves repurposing existing materials and garments to create new, unique clothing and accessories. This not only reduces waste, but also allows for the creation of unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. The issue with up-cycling is that is difficult to create a scalable business model as, the manipulation of old garments requires a certain artisanal approach. There is also the negative stigma that surrounds up-cycling, with the idea of it producing low-quality products. Up-cycling has been featured in collections by the likes of Marine Serre, Rave Review, Andrea Crews as well as Greg Lauren and Sacai9. Slow fashion is another important concept in sustainable fashion. Unlike fast fashion, which is focused on creating inexpensive, trend-based clothing, slow fashion is focused on creating high-quality, timeless pieces that are meant to last for years. This not only benefits the environment, but also allows consumers to invest in clothing that they truly love and will wear for a long time. The term “slow fashion” was coined in 2007 by Kate Fletcher, a professor of Sustainability, Design, and Fashion. Slow fashion aims to balance the need for rapid change and creative expression with the importance of durability, quality, and long-term engagement. Slow fashion supports both psychological needs, such as self-expression and identity, and physical needs, such as protection from the environment. More and more consumers are becoming aware of the environmental impact of the fashion industry and are looking for clothing and accessories that are made in an environmentally and socially responsible manner, creating a surge in demand. According to a report by GlobalData, the global sustainable fashion market is expected to reach $9.81 billion by 2025, growing at a CAGR of 6.8% during the forecast period10. Additionally, there is a growing awareness of the negative impact of fast fashion on the environment and on the lives of the workers who create the clothing. Consumers are increasingly looking for clothing that is made in an ethical and sustainable manner, and are willing to pay more for it.

Consumer demand is one of the main drivers of sustainable fashion. As people become more aware of the impact of their purchases on the environment, they are looking for products that are made in a more sustainable and socially responsible manner. There is a growing trend of consumers seeking out vintage, second-hand, and repurposed clothing, as a way of reducing their environmental footprint. This is reflected in the growth of online marketplaces that specialise in sustainable fashion, such as Vestiare Collective, Grailed, Depop and Vinted. Vestiare collective boast an impressive 23 million users internationally11, and Depop reports having over 30 million registered users in 150 countries, with 90% percent of active users being under the age of 26.

Sustainable fashion can also be economically viable. While it may initially be more expensive to produce sustainable clothing and accessories, many sustainable fashion brands are able to offset these costs by charging higher prices for their products. Additionally, sustainable fashion can be a more profitable long-term investment for fashion brands, as it can help to attract and retain customers who are looking for environmentally and socially responsible clothing. For example, Patagonia, a sustainable outdoor clothing and gear company, has seen steady growth and profitability since it’s founding in 1973, even with their mission to create sustainable products and give 1% of their sales to environmental causes. While Patagonia is often held up as a model of sustainability in the fashion industry, the company has also been accused of greenwashing. For example, the company’s Worn Wear program, which encourages customers to repair and reuse their Patagonia clothing, has been criticised as it does not address the fact that the company still produces new clothing using environmentally harmful materials and production processes.

There are signs that sustainable fashion is becoming more mainstream. Major fashion houses like Prada, Dior and Louis Vuitton have launched sustainable collections and are beginning to incorporate sustainable materials into their products. Prada with their Re-Nylon pieces and Louis Vuitton with their own iteration of sustainable fashion, altering their logo. This raises the question of intention, is it trend driven or do they actually want to have a positive effect on the world? This brings to light the aspect of greenwashing within fashion. Greenwashing refers to the practice of using marketing and branding techniques to give the impression that a company’s products or practices are environmentally friendly, sustainable, or ethical, even though they may not be. Unfortunately, this is a common problem in the fashion industry, where many brands use greenwashing to appeal to environmentally-conscious consumers without actually implementing meaningful changes to their production processes or supply chains. Greenwashing is a pervasive problem in the fashion industry, and it can be difficult for consumers to navigate. To avoid falling victim to greenwashing, it’s important to do your research and look for concrete evidence of a brand’s commitment to sustainability, such as certifications from reputable third-party organizations or a publicly available sustainability report. H&M, one of the world’s largest fast-fashion retailers, launched its “Conscious Collection” to promote its commitment to sustainability. However, the collection has faced criticism for using materials that are not truly sustainable, such as conventional cotton, and for not addressing the root causes of the fashion industry’s environmental and social impact. Zara, another fast-fashion giant, launched its Join Life campaign in 2016 to promote its commitment to sustainability. However, the campaign has been criticized for its lack of transparency and for not providing concrete information about the company’s environmental and social practices. Everlane’s “Radical Transparency”, a direct-to-consumer brand, has been praised for its “radical transparency” approach to marketing, which includes detailed information about the company’s pricing and supply chain. However, the company has also been criticized for its lack of commitment to truly sustainable practices, such as using recycled materials or implementing closed-loop production processes.

The future of sustainable fashion is bright, as more and more people become aware of the impact of their purchases on the environment. The trend towards sustainable fashion is likely to continue to grow, as consumers become more informed about the impact on the environment and the general state of the fashion industry. With advances in technology, it’s likely that new sustainable materials and production processes will become available, making it easier and more affordable for brands to produce sustainable fashion. There are already companies like Aquafil who are transforming fishing lines into polyester and Ambercycle who “regenerates end-of-life textiles into new materials for brands and manufacturers”. KAYA&KATO, a German textile company that produces work wear, utilising the latest development in blockchain technology in order to make their garments more sustainable and to raise awareness within their customer base. They are collaborating with IBM, who have developed a blockchain network, aiming to increase transparency within the fashion industry by sharing insight and tracing the supply chain of textiles. Another interesting company using blockchain technology to make fashion greener is EON, founded by Natasha Franck in 2017. Her mission is to give every product a Digital Identity, in order to accelerate the transformation of retail into more sustainable business models. Through traceability, you can create more valuable and intelligent products, allowing for an improved customer experience - giving access to special perks, information and advice. They are key forces in the shift to a greener industry, featuring more transparency and promoting a more circular system in the fashion industry.